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Establishing a Home and Lifestyle in Changchun

If you decide to settle in Changchun you will find yourself in the company of a few others who have made the same decision.

Building effective business relationships takes time and perseverance. It is sensible to maintain a close watch on your investment or operation.

The following passages may be your first introduction to life in Changchun and the northeast in general. But do not let it be your only one. Look around and ask others who have visited this region. However, bear in mind that most foreign visitors to not stay here long enough to gain the deeper insight that only experience can bring.

• Types of housing available:
• Security concerns (extra locks, guards, window bars):
• Facilities available (laundry, gardens, etc.):
• Furnishings - what to bring, buy, put in storage:
• Appliances:
• Availability and servicing:
• Differences in electrical voltage:
• Types of household help commonly employed:
• Medical care:
• Availability of medication and personal care/hygiene products:
• Physician, hospital, clinic recommendations:
• Immunisations and prevention of area-related health problems:
• Maintenance of medical records/prescriptions:
• Availability of familiar foods:
• Hygienic procedures with local water and/or food:
• Shopping:
• Availability of familiar goods:
• Business hours:
• Utilities and services - services available:
• Internet Service Providers (ISP) and Internet access:
• Payment procedures - deposits, billing:
• Postal facilities and services:
• Time for correspondence to travel to/from home country:
• Receiving mail:
• Tipping of mail delivery person/service providers:
• Reliability of services:
• Computers:
• Sports/recreation facilities:
• Travel ideas - places to visit in the region:
• Peak holiday season:
• Formalities of entertaining:
• Insurance of valuables:
• Shipping pets:
• Essential items to bring with you:
• Possessions to be left at home:
• Welcome to Changchun:
• About the author:

 

[back] Types of housing available:

Housing falls into three categories: pingfang (ground level one floor dwelling), loufang (apartment style in a high rise block), and villa, which might be shared with other families.

Some very nice homes can be found very easily but prices differ depending on location. A typical three roomed apartment, unfurnished, with kitchen, enclosed balcony and laundry will cost around 600 RMB per month in a good area, up to 1000 RMB or more nearer the centre of town. You can pay a lot more for larger, more well appointed homes.

All apartment style houses are centrally heated. Some, however, in the higher blocks, higher than the head available for heating water, require you to light a mini gas or coal furnace, probably in your kitchen.

Modern apartments are double-glazed. In some areas of town the heating is very inefficient. You must have an electric heater available as a standby and do not neglect to have spare blankets in case of emergency. It is not advised to attempt to buy a house unless you are married to a local Chinese and can do it through them.

One room apartments are available, also commonly two and three rooms. Roughly 70 - 90 square metres is common for a three room apartment. This type of dwelling has two bedrooms, a dining room, laundry, shower-toilet and balcony. There are some variances in the quality and type of amenities. It pays to look around. The enclosed balcony is often used for storage but items stored there must not be susceptible to extreme cold - although some balconies do have heating - and dust, which is a severe problem, particularly in spring.

[back] Security concerns (extra locks, guards, window bars):

You should choose a house with robust window bars or have them installed. Your door should be fitted with a modern array of locks. You will need to ask your helper about this. Some styles of lock are problematic if your key breaks inside it, as some are prone to do. Also make sure you change the barrels or combination. Your door could conceivably be used to lock you inside. Some lock designs can be circumvented silently within seconds. Check your lock design for these peculiarities.

You are very unlikely to be accosted on the street, but be wary, especially of pickpockets.

Be sensible in some of the more popular taverns, where fights and sometimes injuries occur. Some men and women there are armed with knives. Don't forget though, you are a welcome guest here and the likelihood of your being assaulted in one of these places is very rare and will probably equate to the amount of offense that you gave, but not necessarily.

[Back] Facilities available (laundry, gardens, etc.):

Dry cleaning is available somewhere near you. Likewise, tailors and seamstresses are common along with cobblers. Replacing a zip should cost no more the 5 RMB. Repairing a shoe should cost at the most 10 RMB if the job is not too large, but you may need to bargain.

Free public gardens abound. South Lake is pleasant to visit at any time of year but will cost 10 RMB some days unless you enter through one of the holes in the fence or from the back near the fishing ponds.

Clear Moon Lake is about 45 minutes away and it is a real pleasure to visit and linger there. There is a range of accommodation, some nice restaurants, flower gardens, grass skiing and snow skiing available. There is a fee for entry.

[Back] Furnishings - what to bring, buy, put in storage:

If you find yourself in an unfurnished apartment you can easily buy everything you need cheaply. The cost will depend on your taste and your skill in bargaining. Across town delivery will cost about 50 RMB, but may be free. There is no need to bring any of your own furnishings with you, likewise clothes, which can be made to order or purchased cheaply if you shop around. The largest sizes can be difficult to find but are available.

[Back] Appliances:

Your house should have a washing machine, but if not they can be bought cheaply. Whiteware and electronic goods are inexpensive in China and are now available with reliable warranty protection, but you should only buy from the major department stores. Any other shop may not be there tomorrow. Actually, large department stores may disappear or relocate suddenly. The best places to shop are OuYa or Hengkelong.

Your washing machine will only work when you have water, which is rationed in most areas. Plumbed hot water is only available in certain districts; residents of other areas generally use wall mounted electric water heaters.

Western style toilets are commonly available to buy and install if yours is unsuitable.

[Back] Availability and servicing:

There is a glut of housing and of office space in Changchun. The city is rapidly expanding and rebuilding. Your employer will assist you to find suitable accommodation, but if you do decide to find something yourself choose carefully.

You should also register as a resident with the local police, which may involve paperwork at other offices and require a fee. It is best to let your employer arrange accommodation for you. Your employer is legally responsible for you.

Apartment blocks have a superintendent who will collect gas and electricity fees once a month. There will be a rubbish collection point near you.

[Back] Differences in electrical voltage:

Electricity is pumped in at a hefty 240 volts AC, enough to kill you outright if you are not careful with the many naked live wires that can be found.

[Back] Types of household help commonly employed:

It is possible to employ a baomu, who will cook (shop for groceries) and clean for you for as little as 300 RMB per month all inclusive. You should only consider employing such help on the recommendation of a reliable friend.

[Back] Medical care:

Quality of health care varies, depending on where you go and how much you spend. The China-Japan Friendship Hospital is equipped to receive foreigners; prices are high There is also a very good maternity hospital in the FAW district. Number One Hospital near Cultural Square is for Chinese, the standard of cleanliness and care at A&E seems also good. Other hospitals become less savory the smaller they become. Stay away from outpatient clinics and small private surgeries, or if you have to go to one be aware of what they should be doing and decide at that time if you are willing to accept their help. Do not be afraid to say no to a friend who is trying to help by taking you to one of these places, even if they say that the doctor is a family friend. They may not be clean or qualified - just grunt on your crutches or wince and crawl until you find a passably real physician.

Do not rely too much on traditional medicine. Do not be tempted to give up on your western prescribed medicine.

[Back] Availability of medication and personal care/hygiene products:

A large variety of western style medications, including an impressive array of modern antibiotics, can be bought over the counter at any of the many pharmacies. Personal care and hygiene products are also readily available, with the notable exception of underarm deodorant, which can only be found now in the larger department stores or in the friendship store.

Hospitals keep stocks of other specialised medicines. Do not self medicate; seek advice. Some medicines can be dangerous when taken in combination. If possible you should choose familiar western foreign brand names, many are available.

Many locally made items, particularly contraceptives, are unreliable.

[Back] Physician, hospital, clinic recommendations:

For a businessperson with full health insurance it is recommended to use the services of the China-Japan Friendship Hospital if in need. You may need to check with your insurer. Otherwise inexpensive health insurance can be bought locally that will cover most of your expenses if you are hospitalised in one of the other large standard hospitals. If the condition is serious you might consider transfer to Beijing or Shanghai, where there are western doctors, or possibly repatriation.

There is a western style dentist clinic attached to the China-Japan Friendship Hospital that has been recommended. Be wary of street corner dental clinics, they are not clean.

Antibiotics and other western style medicines are easy to find. Seek timely sound medical advice.

[Back] Immunisations and prevention of area-related health problems:

The Provincial Quarantine Bureau (the offices where you will have your medical examination for your work permit and visa extension) is equipped to give vaccinations. Also, the China-Japan Friendship Hospital can offer this service. You should consult your own physician before leaving for China about immunisation requirements. There are local endemic diseases, particularly hepatitis.

[Back] Maintenance of medical records/prescriptions:

When you visit a hospital to see a doctor you will be given a medical record. You should not lose it. It is your responsibility. If you do lose it, however, you can get another one, but it will be clean, without mention of your medical history.

Be careful what and where you eat. Many locals who work in the food industry do not pay attention to hygiene. Eat cooked food. Prepare your own self cooked food well. Wash or peel all fruit and vegetables. Stay away from meat, especially chicken, during hot weather, unless you can be certain. Drink only boiled or bottled water.

[Back] Availability of familiar foods:

The Shangri-La does a great smorgasbord and there are a few other western style restaurants of varying quality, you'll need to look around. KFC and McDonalds have several branches in Changchun, also Pizza Hut has opened a couple of outlets. There are a few other pizza restaurants of varying quality.

The French Bake House on GuiLin Road is a good little place with OK coffee too, The Curry House and the Club Bar, also the Rose Garden is inexpensive, offers good fare and pleasant surroundings, near to the Maxcourt Hotel, which offers excellent Malaysian fare.

There is a staggering variety of foodstuffs available, much of it inexpensive. If you are a cook you will have a lot a fun experimenting. If you enjoy truly delicious food visit one of the larger restaurants and see how they can pleasantly surprise you. Some smaller restaurants too have hard working gifted staff. Most cooking is done over a gas fire.

[Back] Hygienic procedures with local water and/or food:

Drink only boiled or bottled water. Tap water is OK for washing, though. Just don't drink it without boiling it first. Wash or peel all fruit and vegetables. Be wary of salads; cooked food is preferable. Be wary of street stalls. Hygiene is an unknown concept for many locals. You may eat at one friendly stall often without incident then one day find yourself lying on the floor vomiting from all ports.

Larger restaurants are safe.

[Back] Shopping:

The best bargains are generally found outside of the large department stores, but you will likely be without the protection of a guarantee. Prices outside run at about half of the price required in the large stores, unless you're a foreigner, in which case you might be asked to pay five times the norm or more. If you tire of bargaining for repackaged dead batteries, buy safely in the larger stores.

[Back] Availability of familiar goods:

Most western style foods can be found, but generally only in the larger supermarkets. There are restaurants that specialise in western style food, called xicai in Chinese. Likewise most of the more famous name brands of western products can be easily found here.

[Back] Business hours:

Normal business hours, except Spring Festival, when many stores may be closed for several days. Some few stores are open 24 hours 7 days. Many businesses are open six days often seven.

[Back] Utilities and services - services available:

Rubbish is collected and recycled at a point near you.

Electricity may often cut out, but generally not for very long, probably because of a problem in or near your building. Find out where your fuse box is (probably outside your door) and check the trip-switch there first.

Water is often rationed. Plumbed hot water is unavailable in many parts of the city. You should make sure you have a large bucket or barrel of reserve water at hand in case of need.

Telephones, cellular and domestic, are often unreliable, but generally work on the second attempt. If you are attempting to call a cellular phone bear in mind that the owner perhaps has a "throwaway" number that may have expired.

Making international calls can sometimes be difficult at peak traffic times.

[Back] Internet Service Providers (ISP) and Internet access:

You may need to purchase an Internet Connection Card that costs 100RMB and gives you access at the rate of about 2RMB per hour. You may be able to get ADSL. Check with your employer about the best method to use in your situation. Internet use is very common, though the connection speed is often slow. Some overseas sites cannot be reached. Popular sites like Hotmail or Yahoo may be inaccessible at peak traffic times (school holidays).

[back] Payment procedures - deposits, billing:

Your employer should handle all utility bill payments for you, but if you elect to do it yourself your telephone bill must be paid at the Communications Bank that receives payment for your area. The system works like a savings deposit: you put money into your bank account and every month your phone bill is deducted until your balance is zero. If you neglect to pay your phone will be disconnected.

Gas and electricity payments fall due every month and will be collected directly from you at your door unless you have an arrangement with your employer.

Bank procedures are very similar to western practice but you will likely need assistance the first time you attempt to do anything there yourself, though some banks are used to foreign visitors. Bank of China has staff who speak English passably in the larger branches.

There are many kinds of banks, cooperatives and savings societies but only Bank of China can offer international remittance at present, though this may change. Automatic teller machines are common.

You can use debit cards (EFTPOS) in the larger stores. Credit Cards are very rare but are available. You may be able to use your existing credit card. Payment can also be made by bank draft or transfer.

[Back] Postal facilities and services:

International parcel air post rates are around 200 RMB for one Kg. Check at the post office counter (you will need a translator if you cannot speak Chinese) for the current rates at the time you wish to send mail.

There are international courier companies operating out of Changchun. It may be possible to get a favourable quote from them.

[Back] Time for correspondence to travel to/from home country:

Airmail takes around 10 days. Surface post up to 3 months if by ship. Couriers can deliver internationally in 3 to 4 days. E-mail is generally the best option for sending correspondence. Fax services may or not work well, depending on the phone lines in your area.

[Back] Receiving mail:

It is advised that you attempt to receive mail at your work office address or through a courier or counter mail. To any other destination in all likelihood there will be no delivery, your mail will simply "disappear."

[Back] Tipping of mail delivery person/service providers:

Tipping is not generally required. However, it is customary to give a packet of cigarettes to automotive mechanics, but this has more to do with you needing to stand over them while they do the job. If you are not there the job will not be done, certainly not to any acceptable standard. The same is true of many other service providers.

[Back] Reliability of services:

Services, generally, may be described as often good, sometimes excellent and sometimes awful.

[Back] Computers:

Windows operating systems are the norm here. A huge variety of popular applications and games are cheaply available, most of them pirated, but not all. If you use them you should also use an up-to-date anti-virus application.

[Back] Sports/recreation facilities:

Gymnasiums, basketball, soccer, skiing, boating, fishing, horse riding, all and more are available. There are activities for the family and places and parks to go exploring.

There is a zoo in Changchun city, also another nearby in Jilin city. Jilin also has Songhua Lake and Songhua River, both well worth a look. Jilin is also famous for its beautiful hoarfrost and winter skiing.

Changchun has South Lake and Clear Moon Lake, both enjoyable. Changchun is the location of Pu Yi's palace, the last emperor of China's official residence, built by the occupying Japanese invaders. It is now a museum and is open to the public.

There are ice sculptures in many areas of town during the winter months.

The rightly famous Ice Light Festival in Harbin is a must for winter sight seeing. Harbin also has many Russian architectural wonders and a large tiger park.

[Back] Travel ideas - places to visit in the region:

Travel by train throughout China is reliable and inexpensive. China is a huge land full of beauty and staggering contrast.

Jilin Province borders on the wide open grassy plains of Mongolia to the west and the mountains of Korea to the east.

Songhua Lake is part of a huge nature reserve.

The volcanic mountain, Changbaishan, is a great natural beauty in the wilds of the northeast.

Inner Mongolia is only a few short hours by train.

[Back] Peak holiday season:

Peak holiday times are National Day Holiday (October 1 to 7) and Spring Festival (February). Try to avoid travel at these times, it can get very busy, but if you do it is still worth the experience; you will be sharing your holiday with a great multitude of Chinese travelers.

You can buy train tickets a few days in advance of travel only. If you are a guest in a quality hotel (or have a friend there) the management can arrange tickets for you at short notice.

[Back] Formalities of entertaining:

You will often be pressured to drink alcohol at official dinners and at casual meetings. You can say that you are ill and cannot drink. The drinking culture for men and women is very ingrained and often difficult to deal with, but if you persist with your refusal you are under no obligation to drink, or share a smoke, which is also commonplace.

When someone visits you at home it is customary to ask if they have eaten, and to offer food. When you visit people's homes you will be asked if you have eaten and be offered food and drink, perhaps several times, even if you refuse, as this is polite. Entertaining otherwise is informal. It is customary to take off your shoes at the door. You will be given slippers to use. It is very polite to give a small gift, perhaps some fruit, to your host.

[Back] Insurance of valuables:

You should insure all valuables. It is preferable to bring them with you rather than have them arrive separately. There may be unusual charges levied for no obvious reason, based on your seeming ability to pay.

[Back] Shipping pets:

Do not attempt to bring animals into China at this time. The authorities are very sensitive about the risk of disease and other hazards.

[Back] Essential items to bring with you:

You should bring essential medicines. All other items can be purchased or made-to-order locally. Even outsized shoes and clothing can be found, though you may need to ask around to find out the current location of the shops that specialise in those items. Changchun is rapidly growing and changing. Your favorite shop can disappear overnight.

[Back] Possessions to be left at home:

Do not bring more than one Bible or similar book with you, else you may need to register as a missionary. Official Chinese culture is very conservative, a bit like 1950's USA, so bear that in mind with anything that might be found in your baggage. Political tracts, of course, will arouse concern.

[Back] Welcome to Changchun:

You will find life easier here if you leave your preconceptions and prejudices at home.

Though, officially, people are allowed to openly discuss politics and religion, it is not advised. You are not being watched directly, but you will be reported, perhaps by the person you least think capable.

Take care when taking photographs. Someone may be offended by what you consider to be cute. Photographing official buildings and military service person or equipment is not a good idea.

Public toilets are often a tiled trench that is periodically flushed, if water is available, or squat toilets that are rarely cleaned. You get used to the smell. Clean toilets can be found in good hotels, well maintained public buildings, and places like KFC.

There are too many good things about being in this part of the world to let a few inconveniences bother you. Remember that China is a developing country and the rural cultural influence even in the city is strong.

You will enjoy your stay in Changchun. It is becoming very westernised, so you will find many home comforts. Life in Changchun is also quite traditional, there are public dances in many parks and squares in the evening.

A large migrant population of farm labourers within the city or nearby give the city a somewhat rural flavour. You can see stretch limousines and donkey carts jostling for position at busy intersections.

Traffic can be dangerous. Stay off the road if you can until you get 'into the flow'. Certainly take extreme caution when walking on or near the road. If you remain cautious you will be OK and have nothing but fond memories of your time here.

[Back] About the author:

PLG Sayers has been working in Changchun as a trade agent, activity organiser and as an English teacher since 2000.